If you’re dealing with dark spots, discoloration or post-breakout marks, you’ve likely heard that exfoliating is a key step toward clearer, brighter skin. But not all exfoliants are the same, and when it comes to hyperpigmentation, the wrong choice may do more harm than good. The goal is to exfoliate strategically, not aggressively, using ingredients that not only remove pigmented surface cells but also help inhibit excess melanin production at the source.
Let’s break down the best exfoliating ingredients for hyperpigmentation and the science behind why they work.
Exfoliants that brighten (without irritating)
The right exfoliant can help gently fade discoloration, speed up skin renewal and even support the barrier. The wrong one could trigger inflammation, leading to even more hyperpigmentation. Here’s what to look for:
Lactic Acid (AHA):
This is your go-to for brightening without stripping. Lactic acid naturally promotes exfoliation while increasing hydration and reducing pigmentation by encouraging cell turnover. It’s gentle enough for regular use, especially on dry or dull skin.
Pro pick: skin editor, an imperfection-editing leave-on AHA peel creme to target discoloration, dullness, congestion and lines.
Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs):
Meet gluconolactone, a next-gen acid that offers mild exfoliation with antioxidant benefits, and it’s far less irritating than traditional AHAs. Bonus: It helps chelate metals, which may help inhibit melanogenesis (aka pigment production).
Pro pick: peel breaker, a liquid leave-on exfoliator designed to help dissolve the bonds of dead skin cells and maintain clarified skin.
Azelaic Acid:
This acid is anti-inflammatory (a major plus for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation), and it inhibits tyrosinase, the key enzyme involved in melanin production. It’s ideal for acne-related hyperpigmentation.
Pro pick: pore thing, though not directly an exfoliant, this cleanser contains 1.5% salicylic + azelaic acid to target problem pores and clarify skin.
Bakuchiol:
A plant-based retinol alternative that delivers similar exfoliative benefits without irritation. It’s great for sensitive skin types who can’t tolerate traditional retinoids.
Pro pick: time sensitive, a retinol-free age-advocating serum that aids in ramping up skin cell turnover to target uneven tone.
Mandelic Acid (AHA):
A gentle powerhouse for pigment-prone skin. Because of its larger molecular size, mandelic acid penetrates more slowly, making it less irritating. It inhibits melanin production and improves uneven skin tone. It works well on sensitive and acne-prone skin types and all skin tones.
Pro pick: pore power peel, a pro-use-only formula that you can experience in a Bioelements Acne + Pore Clearing facial.
Exfoliation can help with your hyperpigmentation, but only if it’s done thoughtfully, with barrier-friendly formulas and consistent use.
