NEW Acne Activists + Pore Activists: clear the breakouts. repair the barrier. | SHOP NOW

Your cart

Your cart is empty

The acne alphabet: your A to Z guide from acne to zits

The acne alphabet: your A to Z guide from acne to zits

If you’ve ever felt lost in the sea of acne advice, you’re not alone. With so many terms floating around, it can feel impossible to decode your own skin care routine! That’s where our experts come in – it’s time to break down the essential acne terminology that will help you sound like a true skin care pro in no time. 

Understanding these terms is important because it will help you make informed choices about products and treatments + tackle your acne and general skin issues head-on. 

Here is your go-to glossary for all things breakouts from A to Z – acne to zitz! 

A

Acne: A disorder of the skin in which oil glands and hair glands become inflamed.

Azelaic acid: Natural exfoliator dissolves the bonds of pore-clogging dead cells. Found in Pore Thing.

B

Bacteria: Our skin hosts a variety of microorganisms, including Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes, formerly known as Propionibacterium or P. acnes). However, not everyone reacts to its presence. In acne-prone skin, this anaerobic bacteria thrives in pores where oxygen levels are low, feeding on sebum and producing free fatty acids that irritate follicles. 

Bacterial acne lifecycle stage (inflamed acne): Over time, bacteria in the papule may grow and appear irritated, red and inflamed. a pus-filled bump is now present on the surface of the skin. This is a pustule. Beneath the skin, deep hard bumps (nodules) or deep pus-filled bumps (cysts) are considered inflamed acne.

Bacterial acne lifecycle stage (non-inflamed acne): A raised red bump develops due to the accumulation of debris and c. acnes bacteria within the pore. This bump expands and may grow into the deeper layers of the skin. No pus is seen on the surface of the skin. This is a papule.

Blackheads: Open comedones characterized by their darkened appearance due to oxidation. 

C

Clear acne lifecycle stage: No active acne, no visible clogged pores; skin is smooth and even-toned.

Comedones: Small, flesh-colored, white or dark bumps that give skin a rough texture. Open comedones are blackheads and closed comedones are whiteheads. 

Cornerotherapy:  A skin treatment methodology with its core principle being the repair and maintenance of the skin barrier defense systems. It’s related to the physiological, biological and biochemical processes of the stratum corneum.

Cutibacterium acnes (c. acnes): In acne-prone skin, this anaerobic bacteria thrives in pores where oxygen levels are low, feeding on sebum and producing free fatty acids that irritate follicles. 

Cysts: Deep, painful, inflamed nodules that form beneath the skin’s surface. 

D

Dark spots: Hyperpigmentation that makes some areas of the skin darker than others. Can appear as brown, black, gray, red or pink spots and patches. 

Desquamation: Cell removal of the skin's uppermost layers to target clogged pores, dark spots, rough texture, and more.  

E

Excess sebum: Excessive production of oil is linked to acne-prone skin. Sebum is naturally produced by sebaceous glands within follicles, which may contain a fine vellus hair that helps to channel sebum out of the pore. In acne, follicles without hair or with weak hair can trap excess sebum, causing blockages. 

F

Formation acne lifecycle stage (early active acne): Oil and dead cells build up and clog the pore; this debris forms a plug that blocks its opening. Microcomedones begin to form. This can appear as a blackhead or whitehead. This is non-inflamed acne.

G

Grade 1 (mild acne): Typically consists of minor blemishes such as blackheads and whiteheads (open and closed comedones). These are non-inflammatory lesions and the skin texture remains relatively smooth with very little active breakouts.

Grade 2 (moderate acne): Has an increase in both inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions. Alongside blackheads and whiteheads, papules—small, red bumps that are slightly raised—begin to emerge. These papules may be tender to the touch and take longer to heal.

Grade 3 (moderately severe acne): Characterized by a more widespread occurrence of inflammatory acne. In addition to some blackheads and whiteheads, larger papules and pustules appear. There is noticeable redness and inflammation, with clusters of breakouts that can be painful and tender.

Grade 4 (severe acne): The highest level of acne severity, with more inflammatory lesions across multiple areas of the face and possibly other parts of the body such as the chest and back. Blackheads, whiteheads, papules, and pustules can be present, however, in this stage deep, painful nodules and cysts form accompanied by swelling and redness. These lesions are larger, deeply embedded within the skin, and can lead to acne scarring. Physician treatment and supervision is recommended. 

H

Healing acne lifecycle stage: The comedo heals and begins to shrink in size as the barrier repairs itself. The skin should return to a clear stage if treated properly. However, poorly treated acne (from picking, improper care or usage of harsh formulas) may leave scarring or PIH.

I

Inflammation: C. acnes triggers an inflammatory reaction by releasing substances that activate the immune system. Consequently, the affected skin often appears red, swollen, and can be tender to the touch. This Inflammatory process plays a pivotal role in the formation of papules, pustules, and nodules. Inflammation can also delay the acne-healing process.

L

Lesions: General term for any abnormal area on the skin – including blackheads, whiteheads cysts and pustules. 

M

Microcomedones: Smaller versions of comedones.

N

Niacinamide: Skin-strengthening vitamin B3 - helps improve the appearance of environmental damage, problem pores, uneven tone, lines, and dullness. Found in Daily Meds.

Nodule: A growth or abnormal lump in the skin. 

O

Over-the-counter (OTC): Products that are formulated with a lower concentration of active ingredients.

P

Papules: Inflamed, tender bumps on the skin. Unlike pustules, papules do not have a visible head but are characterized by their red or pink color and raised texture. This inflammation results from the skin’s immune response to bacteria and other irritants trapped in clogged pores.

Pore: Small, stationary openings that can appear larger when filled with oil or cellular debris.

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH): This type of pigmentation appears as dark spots after the initial injury or inflammation has healed.

Pustules: These classic, often painful, acne lesions feature a distinct white or yellowish center filled with pus. They are an advanced stage of inflammation where the body’s response to acne-causing bacteria results in a visible accumulation of white blood cells and dead skin cells.

R

Resorcinol: A derivative of retinol that treats breakouts, blackheads, whiteheads and congestion by targeting dead skin cells and pore-clogging impurities. 

S

Salicylic acid: A sebum soluble, beta hydroxy acid that gets deep into pores to exfoliate clogging oil and dead skin cells. Found in Peel Breaker. 

Sebum: An oily substance produced by certain glands in the skin.

Skin barrier: A natural, protective barrier, known as the hydrolipidic barrier, which comprises water, sweat and sebum.

Skin cell buildup: The skin regularly sheds dead skin cells, but in acne-prone skin, this process of desquamation becomes disrupted. Acneic skin exhibits an accelerated production of skin cells, typically four to five times faster than typical skin. Accumulated skin cells build up, stick together and mix with sebum, leading to the formation of blockages or impactions.

Sulfur: Treats and clears acne, absorbs excess sebum, unclogs pores and denies growth of acne bacteria; prevents acne + PIH; calms inflamed skin. A more gentle alternative to benzoyl peroxide

T

Thymus vulgaris (thyme) extract: Pure, plant-derived botanical that targets excess sebum. Found in Spot Defy.

U

Ultrasonic facial device: A professional cleansing device that uses ultrasonic waves to deeply cleanse and exfoliate the skin. 

W

Whiteheads: Closed comedones that appear as small, white bumps on the skin when hair follicles are clogged with sebum and dead skin cells. 

Z

Zits: A general term for acne breakouts. 


Sources: 

https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/diseases/21885-hyperpigmentation

https://medlineplus.gov/ency/article/003236.htm

https://www.cancer.gov/publications/dictionaries/cancer-terms/def/sebum

Previous post
Next post

oxygen boost barrier treatment Sample
oxygen boost barrier treatment Sample

Added to Bag
In Cart
Dewluxe for Body Sample
Dewluxe for Body Sample

Added to Bag
In Cart
vc10 eye bright contour Sample
vc10 eye bright contour Sample

clinical eye creme with triple-sourced antioxidant 10% vitamin C

Added to Bag
In Cart
vc10 Nightly Bright Sample
vc10 Nightly Bright Sample

overnight brightening creme with triple-sourced antioxidant 10% vitamin C

Added to Bag
In Cart
Time Sensitive Sample
Time Sensitive Sample

retinol-free, multi-benefit serum for delicate skin with bakuchiol, peptides + deep hydrators

Added to Bag
In Cart
Hydroplunge Sample
Hydroplunge Sample

hyper-saturating immersion mask for dehydrated skin with sugar beet + hyaluronic acid

Added to Bag
In Cart
Dewluxe Sample
Dewluxe Sample

facial oil with occlusive argan, squalane + sea kale for dewy hydration

Added to Bag
In Cart
vc10 daily glow Sample
vc10 daily glow Sample

glow-getting serum with triple-sourced antioxidant 10% vitamin C

Added to Bag
In Cart
Urban Undo Cleanser Sample
Urban Undo Cleanser Sample

deep purging copper + clay cleanser to undo pollution, makeup and sebum

Added to Bag
In Cart
Sensitive Skin Cleansing Oil Sample
Sensitive Skin Cleansing Oil Sample

A 2-in-1 makeup remover + cleanser with soothing, reparative plant and olive oils

Added to Bag
In Cart
Sensitive Eye Smoother Sample
Sensitive Eye Smoother Sample

Strengthens, brightens + de-puffs

Added to Bag
In Cart
Barrier Fix Daily Hydrator Sample
Barrier Fix Daily Hydrator Sample

Whipped hyaluronic acid + silver ear mushroom calms reactive skin

Added to Bag
In Cart
Quick Refiner Sample
Quick Refiner Sample

Leave-on gel exfoliator with powerful AHAs

Added to Bag
In Cart
Sleepwear Sample
Sleepwear Sample

Overnight creme for dry to combination skin with calcium, retinol + peptides

Added to Bag
In Cart
Multi-Task Eye Creme Sample
Multi-Task Eye Creme Sample

A light and non-greasy daytime eye creme designed to brighten, target puffiness and ease fine lines

Added to Bag
In Cart
Plump Start Sample
Plump Start Sample

Antioxidant concentrate to improve fullness and smooth lines

Added to Bag
In Cart
Quick Refiner for Eyes Sample
Quick Refiner for Eyes Sample

Wrinkle-reducing, gentle AHA + lactic acid peel for eyes

Added to Bag
In Cart
Sleepwear for Eyes Sample
Sleepwear for Eyes Sample

Overnight age activist eye creme to moisturize and nourish thin fragile skin

Added to Bag
In Cart
Really Rich Moisture Sample
Really Rich Moisture Sample

Ultra-emollient creme moisturizer to saturate very dry skin

Added to Bag
In Cart
Moisture x10 Sample
Moisture x10 Sample

Super hydrating hyaluronic acid facial serum

Added to Bag
In Cart
Measured Micrograins + Sample
Measured Micrograins + Sample

Multi-action facial scrub for all skin types, including sensitive

Added to Bag
In Cart
Remineralist Daily Moisture Sample
Remineralist Daily Moisture Sample

A pollution-neutralizing, hydrating lightweight lotion for modern day aging skin

Added to Bag
In Cart
Beyond Hydration Sample
Beyond Hydration Sample

Gel moisturizer for oily skin refreshes without shine

Added to Bag
In Cart
Moisture Positive Cleanser Sample
Moisture Positive Cleanser Sample

Rich facial cleanser for dry skin

Added to Bag
In Cart
Collagen Rehab Sample
Collagen Rehab Sample

Face + lip mask to rehabilitate aging, lined and exhausted skin

Added to Bag
In Cart
Radiance Rescue Sample
Radiance Rescue Sample

Instant-radiance mask for face and eyes

Added to Bag
In Cart
Pumice Peel Sample
Pumice Peel Sample

Manual microdermabrasion treatment in a jar

Added to Bag
In Cart
Age Activist Clinical Youth Serum Sample
Age Activist Clinical Youth Serum Sample

All-in-one youth serum to brighten, hydrate, smooth, minimize pores, improve lines, and firm

Added to Bag
In Cart
Decongestant Cleanser Sample
Decongestant Cleanser Sample

Lathering gel cleanser for oily skin

Added to Bag
In Cart
Oil Control Mattifier Sample
Oil Control Mattifier Sample

Lightweight oil mattifier and blotting creme

Added to Bag
In Cart
Makeup Dissolver Perfected Sample
Makeup Dissolver Perfected Sample

Non-stinging makeup remover

Added to Bag
In Cart
CreateFirm Sample
CreateFirm Sample

Advanced anti-aging facial serum

Added to Bag
In Cart
Recovery Serum Sample
Recovery Serum Sample

Moisture-binding ceramide facial serum

Added to Bag
In Cart
Skin Editor Sample
Skin Editor Sample

Leave on AHA peel creme to target texture, dullness, congestion, discoloration, lines and more.

Added to Bag
In Cart
Kerafole Sample
Kerafole Sample

Deep purging facial mask that reveals fresh, radiant skin

Added to Bag
In Cart
Crucial Moisture Sample
Crucial Moisture Sample

Emollient creme moisturizer for dry skin to improve the look of lines

Added to Bag
In Cart
Absolute Moisture Sample
Absolute Moisture Sample

Lightweight facial moisturizer for combination skin to balance and smooth

Added to Bag
In Cart
Oil Control Sleepwear Sample
Oil Control Sleepwear Sample

Overnight creme for combination to oily skin with calcium, retinol + peptides

Added to Bag
In Cart